On a more particular note, carpet is a good insulator and sound absorber. Carpet can be purchased in a variety of price categories and fits nicely into any budget. Please visit our carpet vignette photo gallery for samples of various types of carpet.

Carpet quality can be evaluated on many levels. The construction of the carpet determines the ease of maintenance, the longevity and durability. The contributing factors of the construction of your carpet are the fiber, backing, density, pile height, twist, shearing or finishing, treatments for stain resistance and dye method used to put color onto the carpet.

Nylon is the most popular synthetic fiber used in carpet construction. It wears extremely well, holds up to crushing and matting and can be manipulated into many yarn systems and carpet styles. Nylon offers ease in maintenance and can be found in many price ranges. Nylon is the strongest synthetic fiber and resistant to mold and mildew. Most nylon carpet is treated with anti static solutions, as it is susceptible to static electricity.

Wool is the most popular natural fiber still utilized in yarn systems both commercially and residentially. The finest mills use this fiber because it wears well, cleans up nicely and offers a texture unmatched by any other fiber. Wool can be pricey but its long life if used in the proper design situation justifies its initial cost.

Olefin, also called polypropylene, is a relative less expensive fiber that has qualities that make it highly resistant to mold and mildew. Olefin like nylon can be utilized in a broad array of styles, is easy to clean, resists stains and fading but lacks the matting and crushing resistance of nylon.

This material offers excellent color range and clarity with a soft feel. Polyester offers excellent fading and staining resistance but lacks the durability of nylon.

Carpet can be a beautiful backdrop or the centerpiece of the design. Many styles covering a multitude of patterns, textures and color variations will allow you to select a carpet that exactly fits your needs.

Heavy traffic areas should be vacuumed everyday. Medium and light traffic areas should be addressed as needed, no less than once a week. Soil is abrasive and can damage the fiber of your carpet. It is important that your vacuum is set at the correct depth and speed for your carpet. You can cause undue wear should the adjustment be to low and you will not receive the full cleaning benefit if it is adjusted too high.

Pile brushing is a very good way to prevent matting in your carpet. This brush is most simply done with a carpet rake or carpet brush. Be sure that you use the correct type of brush, see your manufacturer’s literature.

Everyday spills should be immediately cleaned. Moist spills should be blotted with an absorbent material. Never rub the spill, as this will cause it to go deeper and generally spread the problem. Many spots may not come completely out when blotted, follow the manufactures recommended cleaning instructions for stubborn stains. If you use retail spotters always try them on scrap carpet first to see any adverse effect that they may have on your carpet. Often calling in a professional is a very cost-effective solution to spills. Dry spills should be immediately vacuumed as ingredients in the spill may have dyes or color that will stain a carpet if a little moisture is added.

The most often asked question in carpet maintenance is "how often should I have my carpet professionally cleaned?". The answer is ‘when it gets dirty". This could be every six months or every two years depending on your traffic patterns. Cleaning carpet is not something that is particularly good for the carpet just as it is not particularly good for clothes. Professional cleaning is necessary to realize the maximum length of service from your carpet but over cleaning is not beneficial.

The factory that made your carpet will determine the type of cleaning method used by your cleaning professional on your carpet. Depending on the cleaning method and the type of carpet protection used in the carpet construction, reapplying carpet protection may be necessary. The general rule is that if it sprayed on at the factory reapplication will be necessary. Please be sure that the protection used by your cleaning professional is the correct product for your carpet.

Care should be taken to select the right material for the area in your home it will be covering. Your design consultant will provide information on the correct material for the job.

Lastly, small mats or rugs should protect entry areas inside and outside the doors. It is better to wipe one’s shoe on a relatively small area rug at the door than on your beautiful wall to wall carpet. It is never advisable to put a rug on top of carpet.

Padding acts as an insulator and shock absorber. Quality pads will enhance the feel of any carpet and create a layer of protection from sub-floor temperature variations. All of our design centers have many samples for your inspection.

The second job of padding is perhaps its most important. Padding must support the carpet to prevent undue flexing and crushing. Padding will prevent the latex-based secondary backing from breaking down and degrading the life of your carpet. Also pad will prevent the carpet from being crushed between the sub-floor and the impetus of the traffic. Most manufacturers will have specific padding recommendations that if not followed will void their factory warrantees.

The padding you choose will be part factory recommendation and part comfort factor. Most residential padding is selected by choosing the density component and the thickness component. Generally thicker pad height must be accompanied by higher density. Your design consultant will fit you into a pad that satisfies both the factory recommendation and your lifestyle needs.

Ceramic and porcelain tile offer a very tough wear resistant surface. Ceramic and porcelain tile is non-porous which means that foreign substance like grease, dirt, smoke and germs will not penetrate its surface. Ceramic and porcelain tile often is utilized in wet areas of the home such as baths, entries and kitchens. Tile can be installed in a variety of patterns further enhancing the aesthetic component of this beautiful and durable material. Many tile patterns mirror the appearance of natural stone but are more reasonably priced. Please visit our ceramic tile vignette photo gallery.

Ceramic tile is made by forming a clay base material into various sizes and then applying a glaze over the clay base. The final step is to fire the tile hardening the clay base and transforming the liquid glaze into a ceramic surface. Porcelain tile uses a special base of porcelain clays that when fired in the kiln take on a harder glasslike consistency. Porcelain tile is generally much harder than ceramic tile. Porcelain tile can be glazed similar to ceramic tile. Full-bodied porcelain tile refers to the fact that this particular porcelain tile does not use a glaze: because the material is homogenous in color, a chip will be less apparent.

Tiles can be stamped (or imprinted) to achieve any desired texture. Some patterned tile will have many stamps to give the appearance the texture found in natural stone. The more stamps a tile line uses the costlier the tile line becomes. The same is true when we consider color.

Color is added to multicolored tile by a series of screens. These screens (much like silk screening) apply layers of color. Obviously a tile line with multiple screens and stamps is one that would look more natural but will also be more costly to produce.

Keeping abrasive soil particles from scratching the ceramic glaze is important. Ceramic and porcelain tile is impermeable to moisture so any spills will wipe up without issue.

Mopping a tiled floor should be accomplished with a minimum of water while constantly rinsing the mop. Excessive water and the soil it is carrying will find its way into grout joints and eventually discolor them.

As with all materials area rugs and mats should protect your home flooring at all entrances. The use of plastic or felt chair and table leg pads is recommended. Never apply wax or any other coating on ceramic or porcelain flooring.

Marble, granite, travertine and slate are the most commonly used stone products for flooring. Each piece of natural stone offers a random and unique appearance. Stone is a versatile and hearty material well suited for high traffic and wet areas. Natural stone has an extremely long wear life but should be sealed and maintained on a regular basis. Please feel free to visit our natural stone vignette photo gallery.

Marble adds a timeless sophistication to your home. Marble is most often used in bathrooms for floors counters and showers, foyers and fireplace exteriors. Marble, though relatively soft, polishes well and is easily maintained and cleaned. Citric acid, coffee, tea, alcohol and wine can adversely affect marble’s finish. Additionally marble is relatively soft and therefore not a wise selection for kitchen counters and high traffic floor areas. Marble can come honed, tumbled or polished with a variety of edge treatments.

Granite is the hardest of stones used in the interior finishes of your home. Several times harder than marble, granite is an excellent choice for counters and floors in any room. Granite resists heat, is resistant to bacteria and is not affected by citric acid, coffee, tea, alcohol or wine. Granite is very dense material and can be highly polished. Granite is available in slab material, tile form and more recently in a wide variety of accent pieces.

Travertine is softer than marble. Travertine is a type of limestone that has the same applications as marble with the addition that as a flooring material it is often more commonly found honed and/or tumbled. Many times travertine is seen to have voids within the stone that occur naturally, these surface voids are often factory filled. Many times these voids will be filled during the grout process at installation. Travertine can come in slab form, a variety of tile sizes and shapes. One of the more popular uses for travertine flooring is when used in a patterned finish. Versailles, running bond and pinwheel are only a few of the patterns that can be created with this material.(show patterns in illustrated form)

Slate comes in a variety of colors, shapes, sizes and patterns. Slate is excellent on floors and shower/bath applications. Slate has a natural cleft than offers tremendous traction; many times interior slate is continued to exterior areas of the home. Slate offers a relaxed casual appearance suitable for many design styles.

Floor medallions are insets that can be made of ceramic tile, stone and wood. They are manufactured in a variety of shapes and sizes. The medallions are often utilized in entries but are often also found in master baths or any area that calls for a dramatic impact.

Grout is a cement based material used to fill the areas between tiles of any material. Grout is a porous material and must be sealed after insulation. Grout will never exhibit a consistent color or texture throughout an entire floor. Most grout manufacturers offer a wide variety of colors but it must be noted that grout color is only meant to blend with, not match, the tile it surrounds. Grout width is generally determined by the material that it is surrounding. Grout can be sanded or unsanded, sanded being stronger. Unsanded grout is used primarily for smaller width grout joints as it fits more easily into the joint.

Similar to ceramic maintenance, vacuuming regularly is even more critical due to the relative softness of most stones. In particular polished stone surfaces may be susceptible to the scratching that everyday soil underfoot can create. The use of a vacuum without a beater bar is recommended, a soft brush is recommended for most stone.

All natural stone should be sealed prior to use. Most stone is porous and will absorb spills causing temporary or permanent staining if not sealed properly. Any spill should be blotted with an absorbent material as soon as possible. Depending on traffic the stone in your home should be cleaned and resealed once a year. This is also true of the grout between your stone.

Cleaning with a wet mop should be accomplished with the least amount of water on the mop that still allows the floor to be cleaned. The mop should be rinsed often. Always use cleaning additives that have a neutral ph level. Rinse any residue from cleaning solutions immediately. Never use acids or bleaches. Floor care experts should be consulted for yearly cleaning. Never add wax or other such products to a natural stone floor.

For some floors that have been neglected or damaged re-honing or resurfacing is an option. This process is evasive and expensive but possible. It is always best to maintain your investment rather than replace your investment.

Area rugs and mats should protect your home flooring at all entrances. The use of plastic or felt chair and table leg pads is recommended. Protecting a natural stone floor is necessary when moving furniture or appliances. Extremely heavy furniture should use large plastic pads to increase the surface area of the weight as it contacts the flooring.

Hardwood flooring has seen an explosion in popularity. New-engineered wood flooring products exhibit stronger wear layers and structural resistance to moisture. New products highlight distressing and beveling that is commonly found in solid wood flooring. Technology has made wood flooring affordable and versatile enough to use in nearly any design situation.

Hardwood flooring comes in a variety of widths, lengths and finishes. Generally contemporary design uses thinner strip planks of equal length with glossy finishes. Wider planks, distressed matte finishes are generally used for floors that want to look a little older.

A light bevel will help to hide the natural contraction and expansion of wood flooring seen as the season’s change. Exceptionally dark stained woods will show everyday dust and pet fur requiring more daily maintenance. Sometimes "Hardwood" can be very soft. High traffic areas may require a species of wood that has a denser wear layer. Please refer to the Hardness tab above to review the relative hardness of various wood species.

An engineered wood floor is a manufacturing process that takes thin layers of wood and stacks them alternating the grain of the veneers. Glue is applied in between the veneers forming a plywood like product. The wear layer of hardwood is then adhered to the top of this base. These sheets are cut into varying widths and lengths forming planks. A tongue and groove system is routed into the four sides of these planks and finally stain (color) and a protective layer (polyurethane) are added to the wear layer of hardwood.

Engineered wood has several advantages over solid wood products. First they are structurally more dimensionally stable. Wood reacts to moisture by swelling. Engineered wood reacts less and therefore is less likely to have problems when moisture is present either in the atmosphere or sub-floor. Engineered wood has a more consistent and stronger finish. Engineered wood can be applied directly to concrete saving money on sub-floor installation. Traditional hardwood must be nailed down over a plywood sub-floor which often will use up the height of the baseboard and may trap appliances and or require expensive alteration to doors and thresholds.

Wood can come in a variety of widths, lengths and finishes. Contemporary design usually uses thin strip material with square edges, consistent lengths and glossy finishes. Floors using wider planks, matte and or distressed finishes and random lengths will appear older. Variable width floors offer a casual or country look.

Solid plank and parquet flooring are created by milling lumber to varying thickness, widths and lengths. Plank floors and most parquet floors use tongue and groove joinery as they are installed just as engineered wood. Solid floor is generally sanded and finished in the home and can be resanded and refinished several times over the life of the floor. Most solid floors are ¾" thick. Thicker beveling of the edges and deeper distressing can be achieved in solid floors due to the thickness of the material.

Solid flooring is generally nailed through the tongue of the board into a wood subfloor. Prior to starting the installation, the unfinished wood must acclimate to the installation location to achieve the moisture content that will be present during the normal use of the flooring. This generally means that the wood must be inside the home with a fully controlled environment including heating and air conditioning for several days.

All wood floors are a significant investment. Wood floors can be lightly sanded to the depth that only the protective polyurethane is touched leaving the stain untouched. After this light sanding a new layer of polyurethane can be applied leaving the floor almost like new. This process can be repeated numerous times. If the wear layer and stain are compromised the entire floor must be sanded removing the old stain and polyurethane and new stain and urethane applied. Sanding the wood is evasive and uses material so a watchful eye and regular maintenance will prolong he life of your floor and protect your investment.

Soil can act like sandpaper to a wood floor. Use a soft brush attachment on your vacuum. Upright vacuums with beater bars should not be used on wood floor. Dust mopping is also recommended, certain maintenance products that are sprayed on dust mops are used effectively but must be compatible with the finish on your floor. Your design center consultant will give you factory recommended instructions on which cleaning materials are recommended.

Wet mopping wood floors is not recommended. Water is an enemy to wood floors, wood has pours that expand and contract as they are exposed to moisture. Any area of stain or soil that requires a small amount of water to clean it should be immediately dried. No water should ever be allowed to slip between the planks of your floor. Do not apply any wax or similar product to floors protected by polyurethane.

Long term maintenance may be required as your floor ages. Many floors have a protective factory finish that can be reapplied professionally. This is called screening the floor. Screening is accomplished by lightly sanding the top layer of your polyurethane and then reapplying more polyurethane over the surface. This can be done many times over the life of your floor. The actual wood wear layer is not touched in this process. Should wear, abuse or damage afflict your floor past the protective coating into the wood, a complete sand and refinish may be recommended. Depending on the thickness of your wear layer and the depth of the damage, this may only be a one-time solution. Proper maintenance on most wood floors will allow them to retain their beauty for decades.

Area rugs and mats should protect your home flooring at all entrances. The use of plastic or felt chair and table leg pads is recommended. Protecting a wood floor is necessary when moving furniture or appliances. Extremely heavy furniture should use large plastic pads to increase the surface area of the weight as it contacts the flooring.

The Janka Hardness Scale rates the relative hardness of wood. The higher the number the harder the wood. These ratings were determined using the Janka Hardness Test which measures the side hardness measure of the force required to embed a .444 inch steel ball to half it’s diameter into the wood. This is one of the best indications of the wood species ability to withstand denting or wear.

This scale should only be used as a general guide when comparing various wood species. Plank construction and finish are also important factors in determining the durability and ease of maintenance of any wood floor.

Traditionally vinyl flooring has been utilized to achieve an easily maintained and wear resistant surface. Today along with those attributes, technology has allowed vinyl flooring to mirror the look of many materials such as stone, ceramic tile and wood. Vinyl is one of the most comfortable surfaces that still offers practicality in kitchen, laundry and bathroom applications. Vinyl also has a cost component that lends itself to nearly all budgets.

This vinyl manufacturing system is the most commonly used system for residential flooring. The process involves passing a core layer over a print cylinder on which a pattern is printed. The pattern transfers to the core layer. Many different patterns using a rainbow of colors can be created in this process. The core layer is attached to a felt backing and then a wear layer is adhered to the top of the product. Vinyl comes in six and twelve foot wide rolls and is glued to the sub-floor with manufactured recommended adhesives. Vinyl seams are sealed with a thin bead of liquid vinyl that must be applied to insure nothing infiltrates the seams and jeopardizes its integrity.

Inlaid vinyl is made by laying solid colored vinyl chips on a carrier sheet and then bonding them together with heat and pressure. Residential floors are then coated with a wear layer for ease of maintenance. This flooring is heavier and more expensive than other vinyl manufacturing systems. This flooring generally comes in six foot widths.

All vinyl flooring has seen a revolution in the durability of the wear layer. Many floor-covering manufacturers offer impressive warrantees on resistance to tearing.

Vinyl should be vacuumed on a regular basis. Daily vacuuming in high traffic areas is recommended. Wet mopping is also an excellent maintenance option for this material. There are many safe mild detergents that can be used in the cleaning water to help remove particularly stubborn spots on your vinyl floor. Some floors have recommended vinyl floor finishes that may be applied. Please see the manufacturers recommended care instructions.

Do not use abrasive cleansers or pads to clean a vinyl floor. These abrasives will scuff and dull the protective finish.

Area rugs and mats should protect your home flooring at all entrances. Only use area rugs that do not have rubber or latex backings, these backings over time can discolor a vinyl flooring.The use of plastic or felt chair and table leg pads is recommended. Protecting a vinyl floor is necessary when moving furniture or appliances. Extremely heavy furniture should use large plastic pads to increase the surface area of the weight as it contacts the flooring.

If a vinyl floor is damaged, immediate attention should be given to repair the floor. Should water or soil particles start to intrude under the surface the small repair could turn into a costly replacement.

Laminate flooring is a floating floor system that rests on a foam pad. The planks are snapped together forming a comfortable and extremely durable surface. New styles have come to more accurately reflect the brilliant finishes of wood plank flooring. Generally more economical comfortable and durable than wood flooring, laminates are playing a larger role in the residential floor design. Laminates are very hard and not effected by common problems that affect the finish of wood floors such as dog nail scratches and high heel indentations.

Laminate is made by first affixing a core layer (high-density fiberboard or plastic) to the bottom melamine layer. The core layer is where the clip system or tongue and groove is milled. To this base a craft paper layer, a print layer (the pattern) and a final wear layer are added. When all these layers are fused together at one time the material is called direct pressure laminate. When the process of fusing the products together is done in two steps the laminate is called high-pressure laminate.

Vacuum laminate flooring on a regular basis using the wand attachment of your vacuum. Use a dust mop or wipe with a damp cloth for more difficult spots. All spills should be immediately blotted with a towel or sponge. When necessary use a well squeezed damp mop with the manufacturers recommended floor cleaner. Water is only used in minimal quantities as it may swell your flooring at its edges if applied liberally.

Do not use soap based detergents or "mop and shine" products. Do not use abrasive cleaners steel wool or scouring powder as they will scratch your flooring. Do not wax or polish your floor.

Area rugs and mats should protect your home flooring at all entrances. Protecting a laminate floor is necessary when moving furniture or appliances. Extremely heavy furniture should use large plastic pads to increase the surface area of the weight as it contacts the flooring.